We had been climbing for a week and after a much needed rest day we planned for a lazy day at a local crag. It was intended to be a low key affair at one of the ‘practice’ cliffs. It was mid-week so we weren’t really expecting crowds to be an issue and they were not. But we were not the only people there either. Back in ‘the day’ you could have had the place to yourself even on a sunny weekend. But alas, these days, not so much… And man o man you sure do see some interesting folks out climbing at the ol’ crags. This little story is a case in point.
The other day when the three of us had been out climbing we met this dude in the apron parking lot, and he showed up here today as well. This time however he had three German tourists in tow. He was doing some guiding as a favour for a friend or something along those lines. I didn’t really understand the story completely, and he seemed to be deliberately vague about the whole affair. The three Germans were complete novice climbers. In fact this is their first day out. I struck up a conversation with this guy at the base of the crag, since we remembered each other from a few days ago, and found out that he (said he) was a big wall aid soloist, with things like Tangerine Trip, and Wyoming Sheep Ranch under his swami belt. The fellow did have a bit of the thousand yard stare about him, so maybe it was true; maybe he’d just roasted a fatty; who knows?
So anyway… he was taking these young Germans climbing. It’s their first time ever like I said. They started out by top roping some easy climbs. This crag is a really safe, fun and easy spot to do just that. They were understandably a bit nervous and hesitant to be lowered, etc. It was pretty much the standard stuff you see with beginners, but which they all seemed to work through just fine. So far so good, but soon it started to get interesting. This A5 character now started to rack up with gear and was going to lead one of the easy climbs they had been top roping. I began to pay closer attention now. It seemed that he was going to have one of his charges belay him as he climbed. Now this German kid had never belayed anyone at anytime, anywhere. Mister A5 may be a competent climber and is probably unlikely to fall (I had actually in the misspent past of my youth soloed almost all of the climbs on this side of the crag) yet, it’s quite the onus of responsibility to place on the kid; at least from my perspective it was. So not wanting there to be any complications on an otherwise splendid day I offered to belay A5 and he graciously accepted. No worries….off he went; led it no problem, built an anchor at the top quick as wink, and I lowered him off. He then pulled the rope. You are saying ‘wait a minute…’ Ah yes indeed, all of the gear that he placed is still there, because he was lowered and no one seconded and cleaned the pitch.
I now gathered that the apparent deal was this: Not only do the Germans get some great top-rope climbs in; they are going to get to lead climb as well on their first day out, on A5’s pre-placed gear. Brilliant! Was this one of those times you step in and say something? I thought I would hold my tongue and just see how it all unfolded. If they could manage the first couple of clips then they should be okay. The first up was the kid. I keep calling him the kid but he was probably mid to late twenties… so…kid. Up he went, and guess what? He did the climb, clips all the gear, no issues, no falls, very smooth… well done lad. Lead early… lead often.
Following A5’s instructions he then clipped the rope into the anchors in preparation to be lowered. The thing is that A5 had for some reason unclipped his belay device from his harness and was fiddling in his haul bag for something or another. Yep, you can’t just bring any old pack to the practice wall; you have to use a natty and tattered haul bag as if to advertise all your bad ass dirt bag aidness. Whatever. Back to this German kid. He was slowly starting to back off the top of the cliff expecting to be lowered. I am watching, unbelieving as this starts to unravel. Luckily I could alert the climber and A5 in time and the situation ended there without further ado other than some elevated heartbeats for a few moments. They packed up and left the crag pretty quickly and quietly right after this little escapade, with no more leading or other adventures to be had at least in our presence.
Renee enjoying a tasty stopper
(Mr. A5 below her right knee)
We on the other hand continued to have a truly fine day leading short one pitch class 5.fun’s on bulletproof granite and managed to throw in a 5.10c on TR as well.
Soundtrack:
Arthur McBride – Bob Dylan
Bump Wood – Bill Kirchen