I’m guessing that if you are reading this, or are a regular visitor to PGH that you probably have some experience climbing, and as such, are well versed in climbing terminology and vernacular. But hey… maybe not. So what follows is a glossary of sorts. Certainly not complete, or all inclusive, (or maybe even accurate), and drawn from a variety of climbing cultures and different eras.
Abseil. The act of sliding down a rope. Usually for descent. See Rappel.
Aiguille . A sharp spire or pinnacle of rock. Same as a gendarme.
Aid. The act of climbing where the climber actually uses some gear placed in or on the rock to step on or pull on to aid their ascent. For a witty coverage of this activity please refer to: https://pangranitichighway.com/aid-101/
Aiders. Flexible 3 to 5 step ladders used in aid climbing. See Etriers
Alpinist. A climber who engages in Alpinism. Climbing hard, difficult, and often dangerous routes on mountains that are typically comprised of a variety of steep rock and ice sections. Distinctly different from mountaineering, and peak-bagging. Also the name of the premier climbing publication in North America. The three qualities of a good alpinist are: a high pain tolerance, a bad memory, and I forget the third. Drink of choice… whiskey.
Anchor. A secure point of attachment to the climbing medium, be it on rock, ice, and or snow. Typically used in reference to belays and rappels.
Angle. A ‘U’ shaped piton. Used typically in finger to hand width cracks.
Anorak. A hooded water and wind resistant jacket.
Arête. A narrow, often knife edged mountain ridge.
Ascent. The act of climbing (usually a mountain). The name of a North American climbing publication published yearly since 1967.
ATC. A common brand name of a Belay Rappel Device
Avalanche. Snow and / or ice that slides down a mountain side. These come in all sizes and snow types from powder to the consistency of wet concrete. They can have enough intensity to break large trees and can be truly terrifying. A top killer of Alpinists and Mountaineers throughout the world.
Base Camp. A place where climbers camp, rest, plan, swap lies, and store supplies for forays up large climbs or a series of smaller climbs. In the case of expeditionary climbs these can be large and well equipped, with cook, and medical staff. Also the name of a nifty web services company.
Belay. Using the rope to safeguard the person climbing. Oftentimes the rope is fed through some mechanical device or around the climbers body (old school) to provide enough friction to slow or stop a climber if they fall.
Bergschrund. A type of crevasse that usually occurs near the base of a steep section of glacier or ice face. The upper lip is higher and they are notoriously difficult to cross.
Beta. Information on how to do a climb or portion of a climb.
Big Bro. A unique adjustable tube chock specifically designed for protecting wide cracks. A number 5 will work in a 450mm wide crack. But, it’ll cost ya $330.00 to buy one, so ya better really wanna climb that crack.
Big Wall. A type of climbing that usually involves many pitches of climbing (free or aid) on steep walls. Many routes in Yosemite being good examples.
Bivi. Short for Bivouac. To camp out overnight with minimal gear. Either planned or unplanned.
Bivi Sac. A lightweight weather proof bag that can take place of a tent and / or sleeping bag
Bolt. A steel expansion device that is hammered into a hole that must be drilled into the rock either by hand or by powered means. It is the only safe way to protect blank featureless rock, and is de rigueur on sport climbs, and popular for belays on trad trade routes. Dubbed by Reinhold Messner as the murder of the impossible.
Bollard. A structure carved out of ice or snow to use as a belay or rappel anchor.
Bong. Not what you think except amongst boulderers. Otherwise a very large and wide angle piton for use in very wide cracks.
Bottoming Crack. A shallow crack that will not accept pitons, and may not accept cams or stoppers either.
Bouldering. The act of climbing (usually) short difficult problems on boulders and small walls. Was once considered only as training for ‘real’ climbing, but is now a very popular type of climbing in its own right.
Bowline. The King of knots. Now supplanted mostly by the figure 8, the bowline used to be the knot of choice for tying into the rope. It can be tied with one hand. Its detractors point out that it isn’t as strong as a figure 8, and can be easily tied incorrectly. Whatever…
BRD. An abbreviation for (and a brand of) a Belay Rappel Device.
Bugaboos. Large knife blade pitons used for thin cracks. Also the name of a famous and world class climbing area in Southern British Columbia.
Bushwhack. Typically off trail approaches to climbs through tough heavily vegetated terrain. See: http://pangranitichighway.com/boo-sh-hwak-wak/
Cagoule. Similar to an Anorak, but longer, often down to mid-thigh in length.
Cams. The generic term used for spring loaded camming devices. These devices are used to place in cracks for protection, as one would with pitons, nuts, chocks, and hexes. They have the advantage of being able to fit a variety of crack sizes, and are usually easily placed and removed. A distinct disadvantage is their high cost.
Camalots. A popular brand of spring loaded camming devices.
Campus. To ascend rock climbing features without utilizing one’s feet. As if they were training on a campus board.
Carabiner. (Biner, Karabiner, Krab.) A metal link with a spring loaded gate. The prime way that rope is attached to pieces of protection. These ubiquitous and indispensable devices come in many shapes and sizes. They also come with a variety of gate designs, ranging from wire gates to different locking gate systems.
Chalk. Magnesium Carbonate. Used by climbers as done by weight lifters and gymnasts, to dry the hands and improve grip.
Chickenhead. A knob of protruding rock that a climber can wrap slings around to use as protection or as anchors.
Chimney. A type of climbing feature that is basically a crack that is wide enough to fit the whole body. A classic example is Epinephrine at Red Rocks
Chipping. The act of carving actual holds in the otherwise blank rock. Usually highly frowned upon.
Chocks. Small blocks of metal, usually aluminum that are threaded with sling material. They are used as protection in cracks, and first came into vogue as alternatives to pitons. Sometimes small rocks have been used. Similar to Nuts.
Chockstone. A natural occurrence of a rock blocking a crack or chimney. Sometimes it’s a good thing as they can be slung as protection. Sometimes it’s a bad thing as they can hinder upward progress.
Chopping. The act of chopping bolts on an established climb. Typically done by hardcore traditional climbers on climbs that they feel (or demonstrate) can be climbed without using bolts for protection. The Path in Lake Louise, and the Compressor route on Cerro Torre are notable examples. It’s a passionate topic.
Choss. A name given to rock that is unusually loose or unconsolidated. Typically unrewarding and oftentimes dangerous to climb on.
Cirque. An amphitheater shaped valley formed usually by glacial erosion.
Clean. The act of removing gear, usually done by the Second. Can also mean removing vegetation from cracks and features to provide a better climbing experience. An ethical debate. Some would posit that ‘gardening’ is a crime against nature. Others are happy to dig out their chainsaws, wire brushes, and agent Orange. And yet others happily and naively climb pristine routes that are only that way because they were thoroughly deforested decades before they were born.
Clean Climbing. Climbing in such a fashion that does not alter the rock, or at least minimizes damage to the rock. In other words… no pitons! Cams, chocks, nuts, and natural protection only. Bolts….? Another ethical debate. Some would argue that whilst a bolt undeniably alters the rock, that it does so only once. Whereas removal of pitons over and over scar the rock irreversibly. Bear in mind also that many popular free climbs are only free climbs because of the ‘pin scars’ left behind become usable jams and handholds.
Cliff Hanger. A small bent hook used in aid climbing. Body weight only
Clip. The act of clipping one’s rope through a carabiner.
Clove Hitch. An adjustable knot typically used to fasten the rope to an anchor. A very handy knot.
Col. A narrow high mountain pass.
Cornice. Overhanging snow typically found on a ridge. Problematic at best, but mostly downright dangerous.
Couloir. A narrow snow or ice gully.
Crack. A fissure in the rock that affords the ability to be climbed and / or have protection placed in it. They can be any width or orientation.
Crag. A term used to denote a rock climbing area. One that typically has climbs of a shorter nature.
Crampons. A frame with spikes that affixes to one’s boots. Used for snow, ice, and glacier travel and climbing. Prior to crampons the only options were hobnailed boots and cutting steps in the ice.
Crash Pad. A large and usually thick mat made of foam and covered by nylon. Mostly used to fall on when Bouldering. Boulderers are often derisively referred to as Pad People.
Crater. A colloquial and dark term, meaning to fall and hit the ground.
Crevasse. Cracks that occur in glacier ice. These can be very minor all the way up to gaping maws. Very dangerous stuff. http://pangranitichighway.com/crevasse/
Crux. The hardest or most difficult part of a climb, route, or pitch. For example, a 10 pitch climb would have a crux pitch, and possibly a crux on each pitch.
Deadman. A type of anchor accomplished by burying some object (not your partner) in the snow.
Deadpoint. A climbing move where one almost jumps for a hold, but their feet don’t break free from the rock.
Dihedral. A rock feature where two sections of rock meet each other at approximately 90 degrees. Also known as an Open Book.
Dime Edge. A very narrow hold commonly used as a foothold. Named for the resemblance to the thickness of a dime.
Diretessima. The most direct line possible from the base to the summit of a mountain face.
Dirtbag. A climber who typically lives a nomadic or vagabond lifestyle. Eschewing work, responsibilities, and personal hygiene in order to climb as much as possible. Some are legit, some are bums, and some are trust fund kids. #vanlife
Downclimb. The act of climbing down not up. Used as alternative to rappelling. A good skill to develop.
Drop Knee. Also known as a back step. A nifty footwork technique. One heavily weighs the outside of one foot, whilst the other foot is stemmed against another hold This in turn generates body tension and therefore stability. It entails swiveling the hip towards the wall and torquing the knee down. (Thus the name). Works best on walls with steep angles.
Dry Tooling. Techniques used in mixed climbing, where the climber uses their ice tools and crampons on bare rock.
Dyno. The act of jumping for a hold. Very common in modern bouldering.
EB’s. One of the very first specific rock climbing shoes. Designed and built by Edmond BOURDONNEAU
Edge. A small lip or ledge of rock used as a handhold or foothold.
EDK. Stands for Euro Death Knot. In some circles this is the preferred knot to use when tying two ropes together for rappelling.
Elvis Leg. When a person (often a beginner, but not always) is trying a hard and usually scary move and their leg may start to shake uncontrollably.
Enchainment. Climbing a group of peaks, or routes back to back in a given area.
Ensolite. A brand of foam sleeping pad, also called a ‘foamie’ Mostly supplanted by modern air mattresses.
Etriers. The same as Aiders.
Face Climbing. As opposed to crack climbing. A type of climbing that utilizes handholds, edges, and pockets. Much sport climbing is face climbing, and is often protected by bolts, due to a scarcity of cracks or other protectable features.
Figure 8. A type of knot that has become de rigueur for tying into the end of the climbing rope. Also a type of rappel device that loosely looks like the number 8.
Firés. Debuting in 1979 the first type of rock shoes to have ‘sticky rubber’.
First Ascent. The time a mountain or route has first been climbed. Often times first ascents are claimed, when in fact they are not, or at the very least the first ascensionists are not known.
Fixed Gear. Protection gear that has been left in situ. Sometimes on purpose, sometimes because the climbers couldn’t extract it. Use at your own risk.
Fixed Rope. A common practice on expedition and siege type climbing, where climbers must cover the same ground many times over. Ropes are fixed as safety lines and the climbers ascend clipped into the ropes with mechanical ascenders.
Flapper. A flap of skin torn off from climbing or a torn callous.
Flash. Doing a climb (usually sport or a boulder problem) the very first time with no falls.
Font. Short for Fontainebleau. A well known bouldering area near Paris. Also the name given to the bouldering difficulty grade used there.
Free Climbing. The opposite of Aid climbing. Any hardware or gear placed by the climbers is not weighted except in the case of a fall. Purists will not even put weight on belay anchors.
Free Soloing. The same as Free Climbing, with the exception of no rope or gear. Arguably the most dangerous type of climbing. Any mistakes are likely to be fatal.
French Free. A somewhat derisive term to indicate that pulling or stepping on placed gear is considered free climbing as long as it’s only ‘here and there’.
Friend. The brand name of the first camming device used for protection. More or less the brainchild of Ray Jardine.
Front Point. The act of climbing steep ice using the front points of the crampon. Only became a technique once 12 point crampons were invented. This opened up a whole new world of ice climbing, allowing vertical and even overhanging ice to be climbed.
Gaston. Named after Gaston Rébuffat. It is an upper body technique. The best way to describe it, is that it’s like trying to pull an elevator door open.
Gear. The general term used for all of the stuff taken on a climb. Often times just used for protection hardware.
Gendarme. Another name for a Aiguille or pinnacle. Sometimes a climbing objective in their own right, more often an obstacle that must be overcome on a ridge.
Glissade. The act of purposely sliding down a snow slope, either on the seat of your pants (a seated glissade) or standing. Known in some circles as ‘boot-skiing’
Gobie. Scabs and cuts on the hands and fingers of climbers.
Goldline. A popular brand of early hawser laid climbing rope.
Grade. A rating system that takes into account the overall length and commitment of a climb. Grade I climbs being very short duration, whilst Grade VI climbs will have the technical difficulties lasting several days or more.
Granite. Without a doubt the best rock to climb on.
GreenPoint. Trad climbing a sport climb.
Grimper. To climb in French.
Gripped. To get scared whilst climbing. Also the name of a Canadian climbing publication.
Ground Fall. As the name implies. To fall and hit the ground. See Crater.
Gumby. A mostly pejorative term used to describe a new climber.
Half Rope. A rope technique that uses two ropes. Each strand is alternately clipped to the protection. The advantages are reduced rope drag which can be serious on wandering pitches, and allows for full rope length rappels. Ropes must be rated as such, as they are usually smaller in diameter than a single rope.
Hang-board. Also known as a Finger Board. It is a training tool constructed of plastic or wood and has many pockets and edges from which to hang from to increase grip strength.
Hang Dog. A technique that allows resting or hanging on gear whilst the climber works out the moves.
Hanging Belay. A belay location that has no ledge to stand on. The climbers must lean back in their harnesses supported by the gear.
Hanging Bivi. Similar in concept to a hanging belay. A bivi where there is no natural ledge to rest on. The climbers must use a portaledge, or try to sleep hanging in their harnesses. ‘Try’ being the operative word here. Most uncomfortable.
Hanging Glacier. A glacier high on a mountain wall that does not extend all of the way to the base. Oftentimes pretty dangerous.
Hardman. You aren’t one for starters…
Hardware. The collective term for all the protection gear the climber has with them.
Harness. A collection of webbing and buckles that fit around the waist and thighs. The primary purpose is to tie into the rope and distribute the impact forces of a fall. Harnesses today are a far cry from the venerable Whillans Sit Harness of yesteryear which was designed purposefully so that bad climbers could not pass on the climbing gene. A secondary purpose is to carry gear on a climb. Just don’t be one of those twats that has a few biners or gear on their harness at the climbing gym.
Haulbag. A large vertically loaded duffel bag. They are made of rugged abrasion resistant material and have multiple attachment points. Used for hauling gear, food, water, booze, and other supplies on big walls. The cool kids will write the names of the routes they have climbed on the outside of the bag with a sharpie. Like ‘Wyoming Sheep Ranch’
Headpoint. This means working a climb many times on top rope before the climber actually sacks up and leads it. These are usually desperate, poorly protected climbs. Like much of British Gritstone climbing.
Headwall. A steep face or wall at, or near the top of a route that has been somewhat of a lesser angle. Many times this will be the crux of a climb.
Hexcentrics. A type of metal chock used for protection in trad climbing.
Highball. A very tall Boulder Problem One where the consequences of falling are dire. Some of these are over 10m high, offering a blurred distinction between bouldering and free soloing. The Peabody Boulders in Bishop California are a good example.
Hoarfrost. Large feathery ice crystals that will form on the rock under certain climatic conditions. Beautiful to look at, but can make climbing problematic.
Hueco. Literally a hole or depression. A very climbable feature in certain rock types.
Ice Axe. The modern equivalent of the alpenstock. Standard equipment required for snow and glacier climbing. Used as a cane, a belay device, a self arrest tool, a tool for digging latrines, as a leg splint, for cutting steps, and for actually climbing.
Ice Fall. Generally applied to a chaotic portion of a glacier, that is highly crevassed, with lots of Séracs. Extremely difficult and dangerous to navigate. One of the most infamous examples is the Khumbu Icefall on Mt. Everest.
Ice Field. Usually a large non-glaciated area of ice on a mountains face. Like the first and second Icefields on the Eiger Norwand. Sometimes however the term is applied to a glacier.
Ice Hammer. Not in vogue these days. These hammers about the size of a potion hammer were an adjunct to ice axes, used in climbing steep ice, but eventually evolved into modern day ice tools.
Ice Screw. Hardware designed to screw into ice to act as protection to safeguard in the event of a fall. Todays versions are very easy to place compared to what we had in the old days.
Ice Tools. Jazzed up ice axes, designed especially for climbing steep and overhanging ice. Not your grandads ice axe for sure
Incipient Crack. Basically just a hairline crack, or even a tendency to be a crack. RURPs are the only tool of choice here.
J-Tree. A colloquial term for Joshua Tree. A prime desert climbing area in Southern California. “The Poor Man’s Patagonia” to quote John Long.
Jam. Besides what many climbers find themselves in, (for a variety of reasons… rent, women, bar fights, car trouble, etc), it specifically refers to techniques used in crack climbing. It covers all of the various and sundry ways of inserting fingers, hands, fists, toes, feet, and other body parts into cracks in order to climb them.
Jumar. A brand name for a type of mechanical ascender. Jumarimg becoming the standard term for ascending a rope using these type of devices.
Kernmantle. This is the method used to manufacture modern climbing ropes. There is an inner core (the kern), surrounded and protected by an outer sheath (the mantle)
Kilter Board. An adjustable angle and programmable training wall found in some climbing gyms.
Knifeblade. A type of piton used in thin cracks.
Lead. To go first in a roped team. The leader takes the biggest risks, but in turn garners the biggest rewards.
Limestone. Without a doubt the best rock to climb on.
Line. Slang or a colloquialism for a route.
Lost Arrow. A type of hot forged piton, suitable for use in thin to medium sized cracks. Very durable. Also a pretty nifty and striking spire in Yosemite Valley.
Manky. Worthless shite. Used to describe things like gear placements, and rock.
Mantle. A climbing move where one has to sort of pull then push themselves up on to a ledge. Imagine trying to get up onto a mantle shelf.
Massif. A group of mountains that forms part of a range.
Mixed. A type of climbing that utilizes both Ice and Rock climbing techniques on terrain of both types, at times simultaneously. It has its own ‘M’ grade rating system.
Moat. An oftentimes deep and dangerous gap where a glacier, ice or snowfield meets rock. Can be difficult to cross.
Moraine. Rocks and material left behind by a moving glacier. The three main types are Lateral, Medial, and Terminal
Mono. A single finger pocket hold
Moon Board. Similar in nature to a Kilter Board, but not adjustable in angle. A great training tool with a set of programmable problems that are accessible to any user with the app. Designed by Ben Moon.
Mountaineering. The act of climbing mountains. In days gone by there was no set distinction between mountaineering and alpinism. The modern ethos takes into account the difficulty and commitment of the route. For example the West Buttress on Denali is probably considered mountaineering, whereas the Slovak Direct, also on Denali, is Alpinism.
Munter Hitch. Another simple and ingenious knot, that can be used with a single carabiner to belay and rappel with in lieu of a mechanical device.
Névé. A permanent snowfield, but not a glacier.
Nuts. Loose term used to describe small stoppers used for protection. Before commercially products climbers had DIY versions made of machine nuts slung with perlon.
Offwidth. A type of crack that is too wide to use hand and foot jams, yet not wide enough to use chimney techniques. A perverse blend of arcane moves and vomit inducing thuggery are usually what’s required to climb them. Vedauwoo Wyoming has a fine selection to pick from.
On sight . Successfully climbing a route the first time and with no prior practice, knowledge or beta of the moves.
Open Book. See Dihedral.
Overhang (not to be confused with a hangover). Typically referring to rock that is past vertical or has a roof section that needs to be negotiated.
Peakbagger. A sometimes derogatory (wrongly so) term used to describe climbers whose chief purpose is to climb (collect) as many peaks as possible. Often times (but not always) by non-technical or walk-up routes. Some of these folks have racked up a prodigious amount of mileage and elevation gain.
Pebble Wrassler. A somewhat derogatory yet affectionate term for Boulderers.
Pendulum. Swinging on the rope in an attempt to reach holds off to one side of the climber across a blank section of rock. Necessitates climbing higher to affix the rope. In all my years of climbing I have only done one of these. By the ‘rules’ of the game, it counts as aid climbing. Usually A0
Perlon. Another name for Nylon-6. Used in the manufacture of ropes, slings, and cordage.
Pied en Canard. A crampon technique that involves walking with both feet splayed outwards… like… a duck
Pied à Plat. A crampon technique that involves sort of side stepping up a slope with the feet flat on the snow or ice. Used when the slope gets too steep for the Pied en Canard technique. Helps to have flexible ankles.
Pied Troisième. A hybrid crampon technique that utilizes one foot in the Pied à Plat position, and front pointing with the other.
Pied d’ éléphant. A half length sleeping bag that comes up to one’s waist. Often was used along with a Parka as a lighter weight sleeping system.
Pin. A slang term for piton. Also ‘peg’
Pinkpoint. Similar to a Redpoint, with the difference being any gear has been pre-placed and QuickDraws already clipped to the bolts.
Pitch. A section of climbing. Usually between belay anchors. Often one rope length.
Piton. (Pin or peg). Various metal implements that are hammered into cracks to provide protection in the event of a fall or to serve as belay anchors. Many sizes and shapes exist. As they damage the rock they have fallen out of favour, being replaced by nuts, and cams, and other so called ‘clean’ climbing paraphernalia. They are still used however in some difficult alpine climbing where cams and nuts are not suitable.
Piolet. The French term for Ice Axe
Piolet d’Or. The Golden Ice Axe. Sort of the Oscars for mountain climbing. Awarded by the French magazine Montanges, and Groupe de Haute Montange. It has been awarded most years since 1992 for outstanding climbing achievements. As can be expected with such things it is not without some amount of controversy.
Portaledge. A one or two person platform deployed by big wall climbers. Used to sleep on vertical rock faces.
Poop-tube. A tube used by big wall climbers. The name says it all…
Posthole. What happens when trying to walk in deep snow with a crust on top that won’t support your body weight. Hard and demoralizing.
Protection, Pro. Not what your dad was always harping on about, but rather an all encompassing term used to describe the equipment and methods used to safeguard the climbers in the event of a fall. This can range from utilizing natural features such as trees, chock stones, flakes, blocks, and chicken heads to artificial means like pitons, nuts, cams, ice-screws etc.
Prusik. A very clever knot. It allows for a loop of smaller diameter cord to be tied on the climbing rope in such a fashion that it will slide freely, yet lock when weighted. Very useful for crevasse rescue.
Rappel. The same as Abseil. http://pangranitichighway.com/bad-rap/
Redpoint. A terminology used mostly in sport climbing. Refers to a climber successfully leading a climb after having one or more failed attempts.
Ropas Hombres. Men of the Rope in Spanish. Or at least that’s what three naive gringo climbers thought it meant on their first climbing trip to Mexico. Turns out it actually means men’s clothes…what a bunch of chuckleheads…
Runner. A loop of sling material used to create protection along with natural features, or to attach to artificial protection to decrease rope drag. Also known as a Sling.
Running Belay. A type of climbing often used on alpine routes. The climbers don’t stop to belay, but rather climb roped together with the leader placing gear and clipping it as she goes, and the second removes it as he passes. Always keeping several pieces between them. Typically only done on 4th and low 5th class terrain. Also known as simulclimbing.
QuickDraws. A short sling with a carabiner at each end. The standard method of securing the rope to bolts on sport climbs. Sometimes used to extend a piece of traditional gear to minimize movement on the gear or to prevent rope drag.
Rime. A layer of ice crystals that will form over rock. Similar in nature and difficulty to both Hoarfrost and Verglas.
Roof. A horizontal piece of overhanging rock. These can vary in size from quite small to very large, and oftentimes can be exceptionally challenging to overcome.
RP’s. A brand of micro nut suitable for marginally protecting thin cracks.
RURP. Realized Ultimate Reality Piton. An ultra thin postage stamp sized piton designed to be hammered into hairline cracks.
Sandstone. Without a doubt the best rock to climb on.
Second. In a roped team of two, the person who climbs second. They have the responsibility of belaying the leader, and keeping them safe in a leader fall. When it’s their turn to climb they have the relative safety of a top rope. In pairs of equal ability the two climbers take turns leading and seconding; either alternating pitches, or climbing in blocks of pitches. In pairs of unequal ability the leader is usually the most experienced and will typically lead all of the pitches. In some cases each climber will lead on pitches that suit their specific abilities.
Sharp End. Being the leader. i.e. being on the sharp end of the rope
Siege Tactics. A type of climbing mostly out of favour, employed on big walls and large mountains where vast amounts of resources in the form of manpower, fixed ropes, hardware, and other supplies are brought to bear on a climb.
Self Arrest. A method of stopping oneself using an ice axe, once they have slipped and started sliding on steep snow and ice.
Sérac. A large semidetached block, tower, or pinnacle of ice. Usually part of a collapsed crevasse wall. Notoriously dangerous for collapsing and killing climbers.
Screaming Barfies. Hand pain, nausea, vomiting, hearing loss, vision loss, and/or dizziness that can accompany Ice Climbing (or a good night out) The exact cause is unknown
Short Rope. Used by mountain guides with clients and by experienced teams simulclimbing. Basically only having a short length of rope between the two climbers, with the remainder coiled around one of the climbers.
Simulclimb. The same as a Running Belay.
Single Rope. One strand of rope between the leader and the second. Standard rope lengths over the years have gone from 50m, to 60m, and currently 70m. Diameters range from 9.5mm up to 11mm. Smaller is of course lighter, but less strong. The diameter of rope should match the route type, the climbers skill level, and risk tolerance.
Slack. A climbing command in which either the leader or follower is asking for slack rope.
Slab. A rock face that is less than vertical. How much less is dependent upon who you ask. Modern day sport climbers might answer 89deg.
Sling. The same as a Runner.
Slipper. A type of tight fitting rock shoe that slips over the foot and doesn’t use laces or Velcro fasteners
Smear. Using the rubber of the toe to ‘smear’ over the rock as opposed to stepping on a distinct edge or feature.
Solo. The act of doing a climb without a partner. This can range from simple walk ups, to high risk aid, free, and alpine climbing.
Spindrift. Very fine powdery blowing snow. It can find its way through the smallest holes in clothing. Also spindrift avalanches.
Splitter. A type of crack that is highly uniform in width.
Sport Climbing. The t-shirt proclaimed it’s neither…
Sticky Rubber. Back in the bad old days rubber was rubber. In 1979 the Boreal Firé was introduced and everything changed. Sticky rubber formulations are guarded as closely as a sword smith’s quenching temperature.
Swami Belt. Several loops of webbing wrapped around one’s waist and tied off. The rope in turn is tied to the swami belt. Don’t fall! The precursor to actual harnesses. Did I mention…. Don’t fall?
Talus Heap. A derogatory (justifiably so) term used to describe a climb that is comprised of mostly hiking of talus slopes to reach the summit.
Ten Essentials. Hmmm, can’t remember any of them…
Tension. A climbing command usually used by a second or follower, where they are asking for the leader to apply tension on the rope. Typically when the follower is getting gripped or unsure or unable to proceed.
Tension Traverse. Moving sideways assisted by tension on the rope.
Thin. Used to describe climbing that has a scarcity of holds and usually hard to protect.
Topo. Either a topographic map used for navigation or a graphical route description of a climb.
Top Rope. Climbing practice where there is a belay from the top, so that there are no fall consequences. Used extensively for teaching beginners and for working out hard moves prior to committing to lead.
Tourist Route. A somewhat derisive term to indicate the easiest route up a mountain. Usually a walk up,
Trad. Short for Traditional. A type of rock climb that uses natural features of the rock and / or self placed removable gear to protect against falls. As opposed to Sport Climbing. Of which the old t-shirts would proclaim is neither.
Traverse. In its most basic meaning: to move sideways. On a rock climb this entails careful and thoughtful placement of protection, because the second person faces the same fall risk as the leader. Can sometimes be hard to reverse such as the infamous Hinterstoisser Traverse on the North face of the Eiger. In a larger mountaineering sense it can mean climbing up one side of a mountain and down the other. On an even bigger scale it can mean climbing all of the peaks along a ridge or small range. This is sometimes referred to as an enchainment.
Twin Rope. A rope technique that utilizes 2 skinny ropes. Common in ice climbing. Both ropes must be clipped to each piece of gear. (Unlike half ropes) Ropes must be designated as twin ropes. Advantages are light weight and the ability to do full length rappels.
Up-rope. A climbing command to the leader asking for the slack to be pulled up.
V-Grade. This is the North American difficulty grading system used for bouldering. Developed by John Sherman. It is open ended and currently ranges from V0 to V17. At time of writing there are only 3 or 4 V17’s world wide.
V-Thread. A very clever way of building a rappel anchor on ice. One uses a long ice screw to drill two holes at 90 degrees to each other and intersecting at the bottoms. A sling is fished through and the rappel line is affixed through that. Also known as an Abalakov thread.
Verglas. A treacherous thin layer of ice that forms over rock. Exceptionally difficult and dangerous to climb on.
Voie Normale. The standard route up a mountain. Usually (but not always) the easiest.
Vulgarians. Antiestablishment climbers from the early 1960’s who frequented the Gunks. Raucous behavior, drinking, and climbing naked, was all part of the vulgarian ethos.
Walkup. A climb that is nothing more than a highly non-technical hike to the summit.
Whipper. A long roped fall
Whiteout. Conditions of falling snow and / or dense cloud that severely limits visibility to the point of not being able see more than a few meters, and certainly not able to navigate by sight.
Windslab. A wind slab is one or multiple layers of stiff, wind deposited snow. Usually consisting of snow crystals broken into small particles by the wind and packed together. Snow accumulation from wind can be highly variable across the landscape, requiring an acute awareness to avoid dangerous avalanche conditions.
YDS. Stands for Yosemite Decimal System. This is the climbing difficulty scale that is widely used in North America. 5.0 to 5.17 more or less.
YOSAR. Yosemite Search and Rescue.
Z-clip. A common mistake made when clipping bolts on sport climbs and gym climbs where the bolts are closely spaced. At the least embarrassing. At the worst you will find yourself pinned to the rock unable to move.
Zipper. A roped fall that results in the protection gear pulling out of the rock as the climber falls past it.
Check back from time to time if you feel so inclined, as I will most likely add to this list, either by more items, or by expanding on the descriptions; and to my regular readers… let me know if you want me to add anything…